Waiting
I’m waiting
with the swell
bobbing up
dipping down
as I’m waiting
eyes scouring the waves
a likely one
turn my board to the shore
look back
get ready
I’m off
wave lifts me up
paddle fast
chasing
wave surges ahead
curls away
missed it
slide off
paddle back
I’m waiting
here’s another
I’m ready
ahead this time
zipping along
glance back
hold breath
wave billows behind
looms
curls over
behind my head
rises upward
pauses
crashes down
and it’s
WIPE OUT!
leg rope pulls me
up from the depths
gasp and splutter
water up nose
sand in eyes
grope for board
scramble up
paddle back
I’m waiting
another looking good
concentrate
judge the move
feel the rise—and—
we’re away
surging together
the wave and I
crouch
stand up
exhilaration
soar on crest
angle across foam
race towards shore
what a feeling
time stands still
body floats
heart sings
pure bliss
so worth waiting for.
***